Qasimi RTW Spring 2022

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This breezy, unisex collection took its cues from hot climes, traditional Middle Eastern craftwork and modern poetry. Hoor Al-Qasimi, the creative director, said she wanted to send a message of renewal and rebirth, naming the collection “Between Ashes and Roses” after a 20th-century work by the Syrian poet Adunis.

The runway film took place at St. Ann’s Court, a country estate in Surrey, with models walking under blue skies, and among bright flowers in full bloom.

Like the flowers, the collection was bursting with color – bougainvillea pink for trousers and matching capes with built-in bucket hats; saffron for a boxy cotton shirt or a skirt with a fluttery laser-cut designs; and aubergine for a big, fringed bag made with a traditional weave native to the Emirates known as safeefah.

Qasimi RTW Spring 2022

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The cotton weave, which appeared across bags, shoes, denim jackets and skirts, were made by women artisans, as were many other parts of the collection. Al-Qasimi said she is keen to promote tradition – and women’s work – in her collections, and also tapped the Lahore-based jeweler Zohra Rahman to develop a round, multi-functional, multi-tasking embellishment that was worn as a brooch, a pendant and an earring in the show.

Tarboushas – or long woven tassels that are staples of an Emirati’s man’s wardrobe – swung from the front pockets of tailored jackets; the bottoms of small bags; and the necks of loose and breezy shirtdresses. Al-Qasimi also worked with a calligrapher on T-shirts and hoodies that spelled the words “Longing” and “Belonging” in Arabic and English, capturing the melancholy mood of a world that is yearning for a fresh start, and some harmony.

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